Here is every things you should know about The Electrical System of Ford Antique Cars
The Storage Battery
Through a simple system of wiring the battery provides electric energy to operate all of the above units. Should any one of the units fail while the others function, obviously, the trouble will be in the unit rather than the battery, whereas if all units fail simultaneously the trouble is undoubtedly in the battery or connections.If all battery connections are tight battery must be run down and needs recharging.
The generator, while the engine is running, provides current for all units, the excess flowing to the battery.
The ammeter is placed in direct line between both the battery and the generator and all electrical units except the ignition, and indicates the amount of current flowing into those units.
For example, if the ammeter registers on the “charge” or right hand side 10 amperes at 20 to 25 miles per hour, 10 amperes are flowing from the generator to the battery. Suppose you turn on the lights and the ammeter now registers a charging rate of 2 amperes.
This indicates that the lighting circuit is drawing 8 amperes and the flow into the battery is cut two amperes. When the engine is not running the ammeter registers the current being drawn from the battery. With lights off and the engine stopped, the ammeter should register zero.
Adjusting Breaker Contact Points
The gap or space between the breaker contact points when the breaker arm is raised on the highest point of the cam is from .018″ to .022″. This should be checked occasionally to see that this clearance is maintained.
Should the points become burned or pitted, it will be necessary to rub them down squarely on an oil stone. (Do not use a file).
To adjust the points proceed as follows
Remove the distributor cap rotor and body.
Turn the engine over slowly with the starting crank until the breaker arm rests on one of the 4 high points of the cam.
Test, and if gap is not correct, loosen locking screw and turn the contact screw until the gap measures .018″ to .022″. Standard thickness gauges are used for making the measurement.
The spark must be timed to occur when the piston is on upper dead center just after the compression stroke. Therefore check ignition timing at this point.
To determine this piston position and time spark.
1. Retard spark lever fully.
2. Check gap between contact points and adjust if necessary as described above.
3. Screw out timing pin located in timing gear cover and insert opposite end of pin into the hole from which it was removed.
4. Turn engine over slowly with starting crank, at the same time pressing in firmly on Timing Pin. When No. 1 Piston reaches upper dead center after compression stroke, the end of the pin will slip into a recess in the cam shaft gear. REPLACE TIMING PIN.
5. Remove the Distributor cover and lift the rotor and distributor body.
6. Loosen cam locking screw until cam can be turned.
7. Replace rotor and turn until rotor arm is opposite No. 1 contact point inside the Distributor body, i. e. The contact on the right hand front side.
8. Withdraw rotor from cam and slightly turn cam in a counter clockwise direction until the points just start to separate, then securely tighten locking screw.
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